If you’ve been riding a mountain bike for any amount of time, you know how much the handlebar grips matter. They’re not just a comfort add-on—they’re your connection to the trail, absorbing vibration from roots and rocks, keeping your hands from slipping when you sweat, and even reducing fatigue on long rides. After a few months of hitting singletrack, jumps, or just commuting on rough pavement, those grips start to wear out: the rubber gets slick, the texture fades, or they crack from constant friction with your gloves and the elements. As someone who’s spent years working with MTB handlebars and their components (and running a small MTB handlebar supplier), I’ve replaced my fair share of grips, and I’ve learned that it’s not as intimidating as it looks. Most riders wait too long to swap them out, thinking it’s a complicated job, but with the right tools, a little patience, and a few tips I’ve picked up from watching amateur riders to pro mechanics, you can do it in under 15 minutes. MTB Bike Handlebar
First, let’s talk about why you should replace your grips regularly, because that’s the part most people miss. I’ve had customers come to me saying their hands go numb after an hour of riding, and when we check, their grips are so smooth they can’t get a secure hold. Worn grips don’t just feel bad—they can lead to bad habits, like white-knuckling the handlebar, which actually makes arm pump worse and can even cause shoulder tension on long descents. A good set of MTB grips should last 300 to 500 miles, depending on how you ride—if you’re sliding on them in corners or leaning hard on them during climbs, they’ll wear faster. And let’s be honest, new grips are an easy, affordable upgrade that can make your whole bike feel like new, without dropping a grand on a new frame or wheels.
Before we jump into the steps, let’s gather what you actually need. You don’t need a lot of fancy tools, which is why this is such a do-it-yourself project. First, the new grips. Not all MTB grips are the same, so it’s worth taking a minute to pick the right ones for your riding style. If you’re a cross-country rider who spends all day on smooth trails, go for lightweight, thin grips with a tacky rubber. If you’re a downhill or enduro rider who’s hitting big drops and rough terrain, you’ll want thicker, more cushioning grips, maybe even with a lock-on design to keep them from spinning on the bar. Lock-on grips are my personal favorite, by the way—they use two plastic clamps instead of just adhesive, so you don’t have to worry about them shifting mid-ride, and they’re way easier to remove later. I keep a stock of both options on my supplier shelves because every rider has different needs. You’ll also need a flat-head screwdriver or a small utility knife, some isopropyl alcohol and a rag, a hair dryer or a can of compressed air (the kind you use for cleaning keyboards works great), and for lock-on grips, a 4mm Allen wrench.
Now, let’s get to the actual removal of the old grips. This is the step that freaks most people out—they’re scared they’ll scratch their handlebar or break something. I’ve seen riders pry at the grip with a screwdriver and end up gouging their aluminum bars, which is a nightmare for anyone who values their gear. Here’s my trick: don’t just pry. Insert the flat-head screwdriver between the end of the grip and the handlebar, then squirt a small amount of isopropyl alcohol into that gap. The alcohol gets between the rubber and the bar, breaking down any leftover adhesive and lubricating the surface. Next, gently twist the screwdriver to create a small opening, then pour a little more alcohol in. Work your way around the end of the grip, squirting as you go, until you can pull the grip off by hand. If it’s been there a long time, you might need to work the screwdriver a little deeper, but keep it gentle—you just want to loosen the seal, not cut into the bar. Once you pull the old grip off, wipe the inside of the bar with your rag to get rid of any leftover residue, and clean the area where the grip will sit with isopropyl alcohol too. This is important because if there’s dirt or old adhesive, your new grip won’t seat properly, and it might slip.
If you have lock-on grips, the removal is even easier. Most lock-on systems have a small Allen screw on the end clamp—just loosen that screw with your 4mm Allen wrench, then slide the clamp off the bar. The grip itself should pull right off, no alcohol needed. That’s one reason I swear by lock-on designs for most riders; they eliminate the mess of adhesive entirely, both for removal and installation.
Now, installing the new grips. This part is simple, but there are a few small details that make a big difference. First, decide how far in you want the grips to sit. Most riders like the end of the grip to be just flush with the end of the handlebar, but some like them a little further in if they use bar ends. It’s personal preference, so test it out before you start securing anything. If you’re using adhesive-style grips (the ones that stick to the bar), here’s the trick to getting them on straight. First, wipe the bar with isopropyl alcohol again—make sure it’s completely dry, because moisture will stop the adhesive from sticking. Next, pull the new grip over the end of the bar, and mark a light line with a pencil where you want it to stop. This is your guide to keep it straight, so you don’t end up with one grip sitting crooked. Now, you have two ways to get the grip on without struggling. Some people use a little soapy water (one drop of dish soap in a cup of water) sprayed inside the grip. The soapy water lubricates the inside, so you can slide the grip on easily, and it dries in an hour or two, leaving the grip secured. If you want it to set faster, the hair dryer method: heat the inside of the grip evenly with the hair dryer for 30 to 45 seconds. The rubber will expand, making it easy to slide on, and it will shrink back tight against the bar as it cools. Just don’t hold the hair dryer too long in one spot—you might melt the rubber. Once the grip is in place, let it sit for an hour before riding, just to make sure the adhesive is set.
For lock-on grips, installation is even quicker. Slide the main grip body onto the bar until it hits your pencil mark, then slide the end clamp over, and tighten the Allen screw just enough to hold it in place. Don’t over-tighten that screw—many riders make the mistake of cranking it down as hard as they can, and that can actually crack the plastic clamp or even damage your handlebar. A quarter to half a turn after the clamp touches the bar is all you need. Lock-on grips are so reliable that I’ve had customers ride for thousands of miles with them without any shifting or slipping, as long as you don’t overdo the tightening.
Wait, there’s one more step most people skip: testing the fit. Before you finish up, hold the handlebar so it’s level, and make sure both grips are at the same height. Then, grab the grips like you would on the trail—hands in climbing position, then in descending position. Wiggle them a little to make sure they don’t move. If they shift, you might need to adjust the clamp (if lock-on) or let the adhesive set a little longer. If they feel comfortable in your hands, you’re good to go.
I mentioned earlier that I run an MTB handlebar supplier, so let’s talk a little about what I see when customers come to us for new grips. A lot of riders just grab whatever grip is cheapest, but that’s a mistake. The best grip for you depends on your riding style, hand size, and the terrain you tackle. For example, if you have small hands, a thin grip (25mm or less) will be more comfortable than a thick one, so you don’t have to squeeze as hard. If you ride in wet a lot, look for grips with deep, aggressive texture that doesn’t let water seep in—those will stay grippy when you’re sweating through your gloves or riding in rain. I also keep a range of grip lengths in stock; shorter grips are great for cross-country riders who want more bar space for control, while longer grips work better for downhill riders who need extra leverage when cornering hard.
Another common question I get: can I reuse my old grips? Only if they’re still in good shape. If they’re just dirty, you can clean them with a little soap and water, but if they have cracks or the texture is gone, don’t bother—riding with worn grips is a safety hazard. And for the love of all things trail, don’t use tape to fix a worn grip. It might work for one ride, but it will slide, and you’ll risk crashing when you least expect it.
I’ve had customers tell me they tried replacing their grips before and gave up, but once they followed these steps, they were surprised how easy it was. Last month, a 16-year-old kid from a local bike shop brought in his hardtail, complaining his hands were cramping on weekend rides. He’d been putting off replacing his grips for months because his dad said it was “too hard.” I walked him through the steps, he picked out a set of thin, tacky cross-country grips, and he did the whole job in 10 minutes. He texted me the next week saying his rides were way more comfortable, and he’d already taught his friends how to do it too. That’s the thing about MTB—small, simple fixes like this make a huge difference, and they help you build confidence working on your bike, so you can tackle bigger maintenance jobs later.
Now, if you’re in the market for new grips, or even new handlebars to pair with your new grips, I’m here to help. As an MTB handlebar supplier, I carry a full range of grips and handlebars for every type of rider—from beginner cross-country sets to heavy-duty downhill bars. My team and I test every product we sell on local trails, so I can help you pick the right size, style, and grip for your specific needs, whether you’re riding singletrack in the mountains or commuting on city streets.
If you’re ready to upgrade your grips, or have questions about fitting them to your handlebar, feel free to reach out to our team for personalized guidance. We work with individual riders, local bike shops, and small trail teams, so whether you need one set of grips or a bulk order for a shop, we can help. Don’t let worn grips hold you back from enjoying your rides—replacing them is a small project that can make every trip on the trail more comfortable, safer, and fun.
MTB Bike Handlebar References
- Mountain Bike Action Magazine. (2022). "The Complete Guide to MTB Grip Replacement and Fit".
- International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA). (2021). "DIY MTB Maintenance: Basic Repairs for New Riders".
- Park Tool Company. (2023). "Handlebar Grip Removal and Installation".
- BikeRadar. (2022). "Best MTB Grips 2023: Tested for Cross-Country, Enduro and Downhill".
- The Path Less Pedaled. (2021). "Why Regular MTB Component Maintenance Improves Your Riding Experience".
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